Wow. Today was one of the most amazing days I have ever had travelling, it compares to that time in 2014 when I witnessed the sun rise over Machu Picchu. Today was challenging, exhausting, rewarding and hard to believe.
A little about how we found ourselves heading to the Faroe Islands (pronounced like ‘fair-row’ and not ‘fa-row’. When G and I started dating, we spent over a year in a long-distance relationship. We saw each other for one weekend per month, it was tough. We used to take turns in inspiring trust in the process with one another and beyond the thousands of text messages and hundreds of calls to one another, we used to send each other destinations we had found pictures of. To remind ourselves that all the sacrifice we were making, the time we were spending apart and the money we were setting aside, was for a purpose.
We were going to travel the world. We shared pictures of far-away places with one another, one picture in particular stood out to us. It was an incredible picture of a place called Lake Sørvágsvatn/Leitisvatn (the name really depends on who you ask). This place is known as the ‘lake over the ocean’, I would be willing to bet you have seen at least one picture of this incredible place. Look we can all admit we have seen a picture on Pinterest or Facebook or Instagram and gone ‘Oh my god I am going there!!!!’. Here’s a tip for your bank account, make sure that place is not the Faroe Islands!
We started our morning with a drive out to see the incredible town of Gasadalur, the picture-perfect town which was unable to be reached by any means other than helicopter up until 2004. Generations of postmen had to hike above the mountain several times a week to deliver goods to the inhabitants of the area! We stopped at the little white building and the gravel path on the left, and then walked down the pathway. Until we found ourselves staring across at Gasadalur and the incredible Múlafossur Waterfall
which makes its way into the ocean. I have seen pictures of this serene spot during summer, but we were treated to something else entirely. The wind was so strong that it was licking the waterfall back up over itself and sending it high into the sky, it was absolutely beautiful.
We then drove back through one of the infamous Faroese tunnels and headed to to Lake Leitisvatn, near to the airport on Vagar. This is the largest fresh water lake in the Faroe Islands and it is absolutely incredible. We were there for a purpose and that was the hike to Bøsdalafossur.
Okay, so the actual ‘lake-above-the-ocean’ Bøsdalafossur is an optical illusion and it ‘allegedly’ takes 45 minutes to hike. To be clear, Grant and I are tall. We have long legs, we walk pretty quickly. So I would like to call B*llshit on the ’45 minute walking time’. We walked in rain which was going sideways, making way for others whose backsides were covered in mud – they had obviously come undone in the slush!
Note for all: do NOT walk the path which looks worn, it is slippery, sludgey and dangerous. Falling over is all fun and games until you are on the sort of incline where such a fall could result in you toppling over the side! Where you can, look for the rocks, or the grass. Stick to the path in general but maybe one or two footsteps to the side, just to be safe.
The hike was rough, mostly because we had decided to segway our trip over to the Bøsdalafossur waterfall, as it was storming at the time, the cliffs were incredible, we were using each others body weight to try to stay vertical!
Bøsdalafossur flows from the lake Sørvagstan and into the Atlantic Ocean, it is 30m high and the views from this vantage point are astronomical and well-worth our goat-trek out to the area.
The optical illusion is best seen from Traelanipan, which is very steep, so even though those photographs you have seen are something else, please be careful. We saw one couple going all out with their selfie-stick and they were much too close to the edge. Great photo, if you live to post it I suppose!
So, how to get to these beautiful islands?
You can fly either from Edinburgh in the UK, or from Bergen/Copenhagen in Nordic countries. You can also get there directly from Iceland. We flew from Copenhagen and then returned via Copenhagen to Bergen on our way back. If you wish to take your own car then there are many cruises which operate from many countries, just keep in mind that in poor weather, they are unable to dock so you may be out of luck in that respect.
Considering everything we saw and how many km’s we had once we returned our hire car, I doubt very much that this will be my last post on the Faroe Islands! For now though, I shall let you go, please enjoy the following shots!
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